Can you guess what country we are in now? Strasbourg sounds German and it looks like Germany, but it is part of France with the Rhine River separating us from Germany. It has bounced back and forth between the two countries several times creating a mixed culture, but more on that later.
We are staying in a boutique Aparthotel. It's an old mansion divided up into 16 rooms and it's gorgeous. We are on the ground floor in what may have been a parlor. There is a gorgeous 12-foot ceiling. Rather than take away the ceiling, they added a large bathroom, kitchenet and closet that goes up about 9 feet so you can still see the entire ceiling from the bedroom area.
Grand entry
One of the nicer places we have stayed in France
Canal out front
Why visit Strasbourg?
Half-timbered homes, canals, a Medieval district and the Cathedral Notre Dame of Strasbourg that towers over the city.
Food is a fusion of German and French, so something new for us
Produces 50% of the Beer in France with its unique specialty
Alsace region is famous for it's four Noble white wines: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat, along with sparkling Crémant d’Alsace
Great train service for day trips out of town
Our hotel is one of a long line of former mansions along a canal. The Ile River divides into many branches here before flowing into the Rhine creating a system of canals and islands. The Grande Île is the home of the Cathedral and the medieval district of Petite France. On our first day, we check out the Cathedral as its very hot 102F and the Cathedral was cool and welcoming. It looks very different than what we have seen in the rest of France. It's built from Red Sandstone and incredibly tall. Started in 1015 and completed in 1439, it was the tallest Cathedral in the world for 227 years and now is the 6th tallest. You can climb up the steeple, but we had zero interest in this heat.
Amazingly tall
Besides it's architecture, it's the home of an amazing Astronomical clock. The present clock was completed by Jean-Baptiste Schwilgué in 1842. With amazing accuracy this clock tracks: solar time, day of the week, the month, the year, the sign of the zodiac, the phase of the moon and those planets visible to the naked eye at the time. It communicates these values with an artful display. Rooster crows 3 times like in the Bible, the apostles walk past Jesus, an angel sounds a bell, another turns an hourglass, along with movement of the stars and planets. Below photo of clock, followed by close ups so you can better see the detail.
Astronomical clock
Part interest in history and part trying to escape the heat, we visit the city's history museum. Carol's Great Grandfather left this region to escape the wars and we understand that decision a little better now. The Burger's gained secular control over the city in 1262 creating a "Free City." They built a massive fortress around the city which they extended as the city grew. That and its foundries guarded its independence.
The city bounced back a forth between France and Germany 5 times.
1681 King Louis XIV took control of the city after surrounding it with 30,000 French troops
1871 Germany won the territory in the Franco - Prussian war
1918 France took over at end of WW I
1940 Germany annexed during WW II
1944 returned to France at end of war
Today the people here don’t consider themselves German. Some would say they are French. Most would say they are Alsatian, which is a blend of German and French heritage. There is also an Alsatian dialect with roots in German. To them, there is Alsace and then there is the rest of France. You will hear German spoken as this is a major tourist destination for both countries. US citizens are more likely to visit as part of a Rhine River cruise or during the Christmas Markets.
Alsace wine region
A wine tour became another escape from the heat besides being something we like to do. By chance we are the only guests on the tour of two vineyards with our guide, Manon (pronounced mah-NOHN). On the drive she tells us that Alsace has two appellations. Like Champaign there are rules for what qualifies as Alsace Appellation and Alsace Appellation Grand Cru.
Our first stop she tells us is for a scenic view overlooking the town of Obernai with the Vosges mountains nearby, the Alsace plain below and Germany’s Black Forrest Mountains in the distance. (Neither of us knew that the Black Forrest is a mountain range.) There is a large white cross with a plaque at the stop which we inquire about. It is the ADEIF monument dedicated to the Malgré-nous. Those conscripted to fight for the German army against their will during WW II. Germany considered the Alsatian people to be part of the lost German blood line. The occupation here was very different from the rest of France Here the Nazi’s wished to erase any sign of French heritage. You were required to speak German. Children had to join the Hitler youth and Nazi ideology was taught in the schools.
Obernai, France
Enough history, this is a wine tour we are on and we are going to learn some new things. Our first stop is a family estate, Domain Bachert. They are known for Klevener of Heiligenstein, Grand Cru Kirchberg and late harvest Alsatian Cremant. Let me say, I’m glad Manon was driving and the pours were small because we tasted 8 wines here.
You’ve never heard of Klevener of Heiligenstein, me neither. It’s a pink grape grown in only 5 villages of Alsace. More common is Klevener aka Pinot Blanc, which is different varietal. An interesting twist was their Duo De Pinots, which is a blend of Pinot Blanc (Klevener) and Pinot Noir. We also enjoyed their Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Sylvaner. I hadn’t heard of Sylvaner either, but we bought a bottle because it had an enjoyable and unique flavor.
Manon shares with us that our next Vitner is a very talkative old man, whose son now operates the vineyard. He is a delight. We are at his home which he proceeds to tell us about the decorative vines growing on a tree and his house. We learn some history and the new things they have implemented. He is very proud of being organic and happy to share how a machine the tractor pulls that shines strong UV light on the vines toughens the vine so it is more resistant to mildew. It takes the same amount of times as spraying used to and doesn’t wash off like a spray.
The wine tasting itself is unique We are going to taste 6 Rieslings from the same harvest and fermentation. Yeast is not added, only what naturally occurs on the grapes is present in the fermentation. The only difference is the terroir(pronouncedter-wahr). A French term for different soil and climate conditions. He has land on different slopes which impacts temperature and different soil and rock. Slate, sandstone, granite, and limestone Each wine was very distinctive.
Our favorite has the monk on the label
Some land in the Alsace region has been designated as Gran Cruz years ago for its history of producing exceptional wines. That distinction is well earned as we both love his 2022 Riesling Moenichbari. (I found it for sale in California and have the name of the distributor). I forgot to mention, he has a still in his yard that he told us about buying that used to make fruit brandies. I thought it was a hobby. When I thought the tasting was over I asked about some clear empty bottles on a shelf. A small smile comes across his face and he retrieves a bottle containing a clear liquid It’s his Schnaps he distilled which he shared with us. Wow
Colmar, France
We take a 30 minute train ride to Colmar. It’s a picturesque small city that exhibits more of the Alsace blend of German and French heritage It’s filled with half timbered homes, cobble stone streets and flower lined small canals. Some claimed it inspired the village for Disney’s Beauty and the Beast, though I think there is another town here with the same claim.
Petite France
Note the patterns in the tile roof
Huge blocks of nougat
One thing we sought out to see is the Isenheim Altarpiece at the Musee Unterlinden. Between 1512 and 1516, the artists Niclaus of Haguenau (for the sculpted portion) and Grünewald (for the painted panels) created this celebrated altarpiece for the Antonite order’s monastic complex at Isenheim, a village about 15 miles south of Colmar.It is an Alter with a series of panels that open to reveal several stories from the Bible. They have taken it apart to better display the panels. Click on the video below to watch Carol demonstrate, using a model how it works.
Click here to watch Carol demonstrates how the Alter works when assembled.
Looking down you can see the rows of panels
Cloister
Collection of guild signs
To mark that the architect, Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, of our Statue of Liberty was born here, they have erected a 39 foot replica at the entrance to the city. In addition there are small brass triangle’s with the face of lady liberty embedded in the sidewalks to lead you to his childhood home which is now a museum.
Marker for Tour route in Colmar
39 foot replica to honor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi who was born in Colma
Cruise on the River Ile
Today we are joining the other tourists on boat ride around the grand isle and then north to the home of the European Union Parliament. It’s 10:30 but the son is already intense and our canal boat is full. We sail through the old part of town and a lock. As we are approaching the part of town we are staying in, we learn it’s called “New Germany” as it was a major expansion of the city in the late 19th century.
Click here to watch this 18 sec time laps video of our journey through the lock
EU Parliament
Exploring on foot
Few towers remain from old city wall
Dinner at Le Clue
Germany
We don’t have any commitments today so we decide to go to Germany. It’s simpler than you might think 10 minute walk to the Tram stop, buy a ticket and jump on board We ride it to the end of the line, Kiel Germany. I picked it because 10 minutes out of town is an observation tower Unfortunately it was closed but we enjoyed the walk and had some odd Nachos for lunch All we knew were they were suppose to be classic Nachos with pulled pork. What was different was a bed of Doritos and what seemed like marinara sauce instead of salsa. I’m pretty sure it was parsley on there too.
Canal
Observation tower closed🙁
Ate lunch near this very large square
Strange Nachos
Last day in Alsace
It’s time to move on to our next destination so we pick up a rental car and navigate out of town and south through the upper Rhine Plain. Alsace is bordered by the Vosges mountains on the west and the Black Forest mountains on the East. Our first stop is a medieval castle on a peak in the Vosges. It was occupied until it was burned in 1633 by the Swedish during the thirty year war between Catholic and Protestant armies. That would be the end of the story, but the German Kaiser Wilhelm II had it rebuilt in 1900 - 1908. The architect tried to be authentic to the start of the thirty year war incorporating what his team could find in the ruins. At the same time he honored his employer’s desire to try and reignite pride in Germany heritage. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction with several large groups of children attentively listening to their period dressed guides.
Click here for good 30 sec promotional video showing the castle interior
Black Forest mountains in the distance
An example of German romantic nationalistic ideals
The poor approach was the key to its defense
It’s time for lunch, so off to another quiet Alsace village We almost missed this one as it was tucked away off the main road. Situated below ruins of another castle, Kayserberg Vignoble is a popular stop on the Alsace wine route.
