Spean Bridge /Fort William/Ben Nevis
|I gave this post 3 names because the first one is the small town we actually stayed in, the second is the larger nearby town that is much better known and the 3rd is the highest mountain in Scotland which is here. When we left Oban, we knew we started on one train and went to the small town of Crianlarich where we would have under an hour before we caught a train to go to Spean Bridge. Well let's just say we are lucky we are in the correct town! We got to Crianlarich just fine and I saw that their one sign said Oban at 2:14 and Maillag and 2:24. Happily I knew that Maillag was going the direction I wanted to go so I figured that was our train and I was correct. So in the little tea room we went and split a diet Coke and a couple of desserts - Jeff had a berry cake and I had a shortbread with caramel and chocolate on it. Now to you and I that cake of Jeff's and the banana cake I had last night are fruit breads. Don't call them a bread to a Scottish store clerk unless you want to get a dirty look! Anyway back to the story. So a train comes and we comment on how long of a train it was for these parts - all the others had been 2 cars and this one was 6. Several people get on and a couple of us are still standing around. I noticed the other lady ask a train rep something who then motions no get on the train. I decide to go down there and I ask about Fort William train she says this is it. Eek! Run towards Jeff and the bags he grabs I grab and we get on the train and it starts moving almost instantly. Seems the train cars were about to break up with half going to Oban and half up to Maillag. Now inside the cars there is a scrolling sign with the upcoming stations and part of me is still not sure we are on the correct train so until that sign finally started working I was worried. I mean does the lady delivering coffee and tea really know which train is which?
After I was content that we were on the correct train, I was able to enjoy the incredible scenery that started unfolding outside our window. The only place I can think of any similar scenery were some of the mountains around San Francisco. The hills are golden like there and some are steep and large rocks/boulders are just kind of strewn about. Oh and sheep keep popping up. I think some of them are part mountain goat with the steep hills they were grazing on. Then you would see a lake or occasionally a woodland area. It was a sunny day so that helped out too. The marketing folks are calling this "The Outdoor Capital of the UK". So there are lots of hiking and biking trails in the area. From the train you could see people walking with backpacks on and even the train was set up to carry bicycles. The train line we are on right now is the West Highland Line and is considered one of the best train trips to do. After we got in for the night I went back and read one of the leaflets given us for the trip and it pointed out a couple of key things that made some signs I had seen make more sense. In one spot our train ride included a horseshoe curve; and like I thought we passed a ruin of an old castle (only some exterior walls standing). There were also signs about Corrour like it was a big deal and I was thinking sure is small and remote feeling - um yeah Carol that is why it is special. You literally cannot get here by car and it is the peak spot along the line.
Our tour included a taxi from the 1 room train station of Spean Bridge to our B and B for the next 2 nights - Old Pines. It is called Old Pines because it is located on 6 acres with old pine trees. This is a pretty modern building that closes in the winter. It is also known for its restaurant which is organic and happily included in our package. Like our last B and B this one is small at 7 or so rooms each with a flower for a name - we are in viola. After we got unpacked, we went for a walk - couple of paths just across the single track road. First you have to cross the fence to get to the paths.
The path we chose took us along a stream where we saw several old bridges. One of them is quite famous in Scotland because it is where the uprising of 45 started. Um the uprising of the Jacobites in 1745 that is to you and me. As we were walking we commented that it felt like we were walking on an old railway - we were correct. Later we saw a couple of old bridges and a placard informed us that a couple of rich men had built a railway for this area with fancy train stations and such only to overspend and to have it quickly fail for lack of passengers. As we continued to walk, we found a sign that reassured us that everywhere in the world there are lawyers and stupid people. "Warning - danger" seems that 30 feet or so up was some power lines and they were warning people not to carry their fishing poles upright. Jeff wanted to know what type of fishing poles these people are using!
Bridge built by British, but used by both sides |
Bad investment |
Some time after the Jacobite uprising failed the British Lords learned they could make more money from raising sheep than the rents they collected from people. So the people were evicted and the sheep took over. Today, there are sheep everywhere. We learned on our walk that they like the woods about as much as they like the pasture.
Watchful Mom |
Her Sleeping lamb |
Next morning it was off to Nevis Mountain Range Ski Resort. Where we rode up its gondola and did a couple of hikes. Seems they are having trouble making a go of it as a ski resort because of low snow levels the last couple of years, but they are a top mountain biking spot in the world. Matter of fact there were signs up about an upcoming Grand Prix event sponsored by Mercedes Benz. We enjoyed the 2 walks and the scenery.
Then we were off to Ben Nevis distillery. Unfortunately we just missed the start of a tour, but we did taste 4 of their whiskeys. A 10 year single malt, a younger single malt and 2 blends. We decided we like the single malts the best.
The next morning we left for our next destination: the Isle of Skye. But getting there was going to be special. We were on the Jacobite train over the Glenfinnan viaduct past deep water loch and a short river, and mountains. If you are a archetecture buff you would know the viaduct is one of the largest concrete structures around. If you are a Harry Potter fan, you know it as part of the train trip to Hogwarts. It is supposed to be a steam train, but due to high fire danger on our day, it was partly steam and partly diesel. The train was nicely refurbished to feel like an old train car inside. The seats in first class were like a wingback chair with wooden legs. It was fun.
While we didn’t depart from Platform 9 3/4, the trolley cart did sell chocolate frogs |
We were in the first coach after the steam locomotive |
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