We spent 4 nights in the bush of South Africa. The first 2 nights we stayed inside of Kruger National Park at Lion Sands and the second 2 nights in Sabi Sabi at the Bush Lodge. Both are quite nice, but Lion Sands was better for the room and maybe Sabi Sabi wins the view. Between the 2 lodges we saw all 5 of the big 5 and many other animals and learned a lot about the bush and how its natives survive. (Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Elephant, Water Buffalo)
We had a direct 2 1/2 hr flight from the main airport in Cape Town to Kruger - Skukuza airport, a very cute small airport where safari vehicles picked us up and took us to our first lodge. The flight was on a small regional jet but not overly little.
Best little airport I have ever seen
One of the questions we had before we started the safari was how many animals would we really see and how close would they be. Well, literally right outside the gates to the airport, there was a Nyla (an antelope relative) then right before the lodge as we crossed the rickety bridge over the river, we saw a large crocodile and a turtle. So yes we would see a lot and close. We got to the lodge which has an open-air reception and dining to be greeted with a welcoming glass of champagne. Then we were escorted to 2 large tables on a deck overlooking the river for lunch. We were all quite excited that we could see an even larger crocodile, a water buffalo in the far distance and portions of hippos in the river. Little did we know how much more and how much better we were about to see things!
Narina Lodge at Lion Sands Preserve
The schedule at both lodges was afternoon tea at 3, leave for game drive at 3:30, sundowner during drive and then dinner when we returned. So, on our first day we had just a short time to unpack and find our bug spray, hats and sunscreen before we headed out for our first drive. Honestly I remember 2 animal sightings for sure on that first drive although there probably was more. First thing is the impalas. Impalas are another antelope relative, and they are everywhere in Kruger, but you know when you are new, they are special!
Our guide jokingly referred to Impala as Fast Food because of the M as in McDonalds on their rear
Male Impala
Towards the end of our drive, Murray our driver says I might have something special for you and the jeep takes off. I remember thinking oh someone on the radio said something about a cat- yes! Boy was I right. We did find a leopard. Here is where our second question of how close would they really be got met in a big way. So, Mr. leopard was casually walking (sauntering) down the dirt one lane road we were driving on (like on the marketing photos that you think you will never see). Quite casually without a care in the world even though there were 2 Land Cruisers right by him. Then he cut into the bush/brush. To my surprise we followed. The guides quickly realized he was hunting, and we were following. Well, he found his prey a baby warthog. While he got the baby, daddy warthog attacked the leopard. Result is leopard had a superficial wound and no dinner. We would learn later that the baby warthog did eventually die because a driver found it elsewhere. After the failed dinner attempt, Mr. Leopard sauntered right past our jeep as in I could have leaned over and touched him. So yep, he was close. Little side note a leopard's urine smells like buttered popcorn. After that Murray (our guide) and Kruger (our tracker) found a quiet spot to pull over and we had our first sundowner.
“I own this road”
Yes that is a Leopard only a few feet in front of Carol
OMG, there is a Leopard next to me
He has personality
Click on Video(s) below
Make sure your audio is on!
This is my Territory
On the Hunt!
A sundowner is a break, drink while the sun is literally going down or setting. Gin and tonics are the quintessential drink which I had, and the others tried a South African liquor called Amarula which they enjoyed.
Snacks, wine, cocktails on the hood of a Toyota Land Cruiser
Good friends, good times
After that we hopped back into the jeep to see if we saw anything else on our way back to the lodge. I can assure you we saw more. When we got back they met us with warm wash cloths and invited us to have a drink before dinner. We then had a nice meal and were walked back to our cabins. (You’re not allowed to walk to your cabin unescorted after dark.). With a promise of a 6am wake up call for our 6:30 drive.
Now to call what I slept in a cabin is rather misleading. Everyone had their own very private building with a deck and plunge pool in back overlooking the Sabi River. We got to our places by walking along an elevated walkway with a cutoff to each cabin - I think just 9 cabins for the whole place. When you walked in there was a king-sized bed to your right and a living room area to your left with a long narrow desk, a sofa, coffee table, refrigerator, snack bar with a glass wall and doors leading to your deck. On the right if you continued past the bed there was a large armoire for clothing and then a doorway into the bathroom which had a separate commode room, 2 sinks a freestanding slipper tub, a large shower and 2 doors. One door went to the deck and the other to your outdoor shower. Like I said a cabin is a poor name for our rooms. The only bad thing was you needed to get up early each day and I would have loved to stay there longer!
What a view
Next day our first full day on safari. Cruel early morning wake up call, grab a small bite and juice in the lodge and head out with Murray - I should add that our friends Kathy and Scott were with us in the vehicle. It could have held 6 guests, but we had only 4. As the Land Cruiser went back the rows got taller so you could see well. There were 2 seats per row since the middle was a box you could put stuff in to keep it safe. ;
In the mornings you started out dressed warmly and wrapped up in the warm blanket they had for you at your seat. So off we went in search of animals. And animals we found. I think it was on this day that we found our first young elephant, we saw a giraffe family, lots of birds and of course impalas and other antelope relatives.
50s at sunrise
Click on video below
Big Elephant
Click on Video below for Giraffe Parade
Tick Birds on the Giraffes eat bugs on coat and alert to danger
During the morning drive we had a break for coffee and small sweets. Jeff tried the amarula in a small cup of coffee and I enjoyed the sweets. Then casually head back to the lodge for breakfast. On the way, we found Hippos lounging in the river and Baboons staking out a bridge.
Hippos are dangerous
Our guide Murray pointing out the power of a Hippos jaws and dangerous tusks
Looks like the Baboons own that bridge
At the lodge we were met again with warm washcloths and a nice full breakfast - it was a sit down with different choices the 2 mornings we were there on top of the snacks and fruit and yogurt on the table. After breakfast we were all free to do whatever, we wanted for the afternoon.
Jeff and I chose to enjoy our deck for a while; others enjoyed the spa. We skipped lunch - I promise you we did not go hungry! We did make it to afternoon tea which had a nice mixture of sweet and savory snacks before we headed out for our afternoon drive. On an afternoon drive, you took a jacket with you, but did not need it till the sun went down then the temperature dropped fast. During the drive we came across a family of warthogs. All was calm until a rival male showed up.
Family of Warthogs
Rival male at the top of the photo
Exciting chase as he chases off his rival
Instead of heading to the lodge for dinner that night we headed out to a spot they had set up for a bush dinner. While we were out in the wilderness, they had built bathrooms for us so not too rugged. There was a big campfire going with a serving area on one side and tables for us on the other and that night we ate with our guides, so Murray joined us. We had a variety of local dishes over the evening and then the chef and staff started to serenade us with song. The song turned into dance, and I found myself out there dancing with one of the staff. It was a fun evening.
Giraffe at the end of the bush drive. Guides use a red light at night so as to not scare the animals.
Dinner in the bush
Click on the video and make sure your sound is on
Next morning another game drive. It started out slow - not even the birds were out. I even asked Murray what did you do with the animals? Well, the morning would change. First, we would learn about sleeping impala in tree. We saw a leg of an impala up in a tree. Murray explained that a leopard had stashed it there so he could eat it later. For the next couple of days, we would be looking for sleeping impalas to no avail. We also learned that after a kill the vultures and Hyenas arrive waiting for the leftovers.
Clean up crew
The second change is that it would become the day of the water buffalo. Late into the drive, Murray got word of some water buffalo near the road so off we went. We got to the spot where the other vehicle was and pulled off to the side some. We could see them through the trees not far away. Then they started to cross the road in front of us and I was intent on watching them when Scott and Kathy who were sitting behind us said they are crossing behind us too. Um yeah, we ended up in the middle of a hundred or more water buffalo munching there way towards the river.
Click on video below to watch the Water Buffalo heard on their way to the river
It was cool. When the time was convenient, we pulled out so others could see and headed back to the lodge. Another wonderful breakfast and get your suitcases out so we can transport you to the other lodge. Murray drove us in the Land Cruiser to Lion Sands which is a private reserve next too Kruger. We had seen almost all of the big 5 at the point. We were missing the lion.
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