Galway - Wild Atlantic Coast

We have been looking forward to this portion of our trip as our daughter is joining us for a few days.  She flew into Dublin and explored that city before catching the train out to Galway where we picked her up.  That first afternoon, we had a wonderful meal at Kai Restaurant and spent some time exploring Galway including the Spanish Arch and the Latin Quarter.  We start to walk along the seapint promenade to Salthill and its promenade but it is too windy and cold for us so cut the walk short. Then off to a very nice AirBnB in Kinvara about 30 minutes from Galway.  

Block, bottom left
Latin Quarter, bottom right

Close by where we are staying is Dunguaire castle.  It had been open for tours and medieval dinners but has been closed this year.  Regardless we walked its perimeter exploring what we could see.  We then drove a short distance to Kinvara to explore that town.  We explore a couple small shops and an art gallery and walk most of this small town before heading on our way.  

Dunguaire castle

Cliffs of Moher

The highlight of our day is a trip to Cliffs of Moher. On our way we have a very scenic drive and marvel at the landscape as we drive through The Burren.  Both The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher are UNESCO Geoparks which are internationally recognized places with unique geology, landscapes, history and culture.  The Burren is a rocky expanse ending at the precipice of the Cliffs of Moher.

The Irish government has developed a wonderful visitor's center into the hillside so that it doesn’t disturb the beauty of the area.  We decide to check out the exhibit later, so off to the precipice we go.  It’s well worth the steep climb up the hill as the view cannot be over sold.   

We have spoken of the strong winds a few times this summer.  Nothing could have prepared us for what we were about to experience when we reached a spot on the southern portion of the walk.  We all were struggling to keep our feet and looked like Jim Cantore doing a broadcast at the latest hurricane.  

We then head for O’Brien’s tower to get a view to the North.   It was built in 1835 by Cornelius O’Brien to make the Cliffs more accessible.  He was the local landowner and local member of Parliament for Claire County.

O’Brien’s Tower on top of cliff

Kylemore Abby

It’s a long drive from where we are staying to Kylemore Abby, but our first glimpse of it across the lake validates our time investment.  It’s almost like a fairy tale castle with a lake in the foreground and mountain immediately behind it.  Its story is one of love and tragedy.   Mitchel and Margret Henry built a gorgeous estate on 13,000 acres to raise a large family and to help the desperate people of the area.  Tragically Margret died in 1874 on a vacation in Egypt only a few years after finishing the estate.  Henry never remarried instead focusing on Irish Home Rule.  Click here for a short history.

They blasted away the rock so they could site the building just right. 

We jumped ahead of the exhibition to hear the guide tell the history of the estate and then doubled back to a very professionally done exhibit.  The exhibit had Mitchel and Margret greeting you on life size video screens.  As you move around the rooms you learn of their story, the innovations and creative art used on both the building and the gardens.  The story progresses to the sad story of the next owners and finally how the Benedictine Nuns found their way from Europe.  Then off to visit the rooms open on the tour.

They recreated the dress from a painting of Margret

Seating cards used to show famous guests who visited

Today Kylemore Abby is home to a community of Benedictine Nuns since 1920.  They reside on the second floor but will soon move into a new 1.5M Monastery and Retreat Center a short walk away.  

Currently, the Abby resides on 1,000 acres (a fraction of its original 13,000 acres) with much of the Gardens restored and two of the glass greenhouses.  The Gardens (6 acres) are divided between the Walled Victorian Gardens and the Vegetable Gardens.  At the time of the Henry’s, they were self-sufficient and even raised bananas and other tropical fruit in the greenhouses.  We also tour the head gardener's house and the house for garden boys all of which have been recreated.

Originally there were 6 green houses across the back

Top left, Head Gardners house

Now a days there are 2 pigs and some Connemara ponies on the property.  All of the animals are little celebrities, but each year one of the ponies spends the summer on the estate of the Irish President.

Connemara ponies

The Gothic Church, “Miniature Cathedral’ in neo-Gothic style was built by Mitchell Henry in memory of his wife Margaret.  It is a short walk along the lake to reach the church.  It was originally Protestant but was rechristened Catholic after the nuns came.  It was meant to be light and airy - I suspect the goal was for a feminine feel to the church.    Before leaving Cierra and I make a beeline for the gift shop before it closes.  The nuns make chocolate candy, bees wax products and a cream Irish whiskey, and we want to get something.  We end of with a small package of milk and dark chocolate sheep and a small bottle of the Irish Whiskey.

Minature Cathedral

We break up our drive back with a stop for dinner in Galway’s Latin District at Brasserie on the corner.  It had a great pub feel in the bar and a good menu that we enjoyed.   I wanted to order a beer in the pub, but pledged no alcohol when driving over here, so tried Erdinger Hefe-Weissbier Alcohol free.  I enjoyed it, but it was different than your typical Hefe Weiss  or American Blue Moon.  

Aran Islands - Inis Mór

We have an early start to catch the Ferry to Inis Mór largest of the three Aran Islands.   It took us about 90 minutes to make the crossing, family handled the waves well.  We met Stephen who operates Inis Mor Horse Carriage Tours and will join him and his horse Bob for a 3.5 hour tour of the island.  

Bob has some lineage from the Spanish horses who swam ashore after a ship of the Spanish Armada sank offshore giving this area a unique breed. 

Stephen’s family has lived on the Island for generations.  People here are part of the Gaeltacht who speak Gaelic as their first language, though we didn’t have any problem understanding Stephen’s English. He told us that they didn’t receive electricity until 1974.   No movie theaters, but Netflix is a big hit.  Tourism is the largest economic engine; some people also graze sheep and only in the summer cows.   The pastures are subdivided to small sections by rock walls to provide cover from the wind for the animals.  

Lots of people choose to rent bikes to explore the island. 
This is a single track road, not a bike path

Don’t miss the seal in the water

On a rare sunny day in Ireland, everyone sun bathes

Swans and Herons are common 

Not a man made wall
Storms in the winter push large rocks ashore, sometimes blocking the road.  

White sandy beach was a surprise on this rocky island

Local community near the end of the Island

We had warm blankets in the Carriage

Our ride along the coastline is taking us to Dún Aonghasa, an ancient set of three terraced walls 300 feet atop the ocean cliffs.   The oldest dates back to 1100 BC.  Their location on an Island that never could have support many people is a mystery.  

I am laying flat on my stomach to take this shot

Dún Aonghasa

Our return on the ferry takes an extra hour to take us past the other two Aran Islands and then off to the base of The Cliffs of Moher.  It sounded like a great itinerary, but the reality of a rough ocean made it a difficult voyage for many aboard. At least the rain stopped and the sky’s cleared when we reached the cliffs.  

MV Plassey struck a rock in the 1960s

Cliff of Moher O’Brien Watch Tower above cliff

700 ft tall doesn’t mean much until you look up from the Ocean

These are the cliffs used for location shots for several recent popular movies.  Harry Potter & the Half-Blood Prince, The Princess Bride and Leap Year, Ryan’s Daughter, and The Guns of Navarone.

We wrapped up our day back at Galway’s Latin Quarter at a famous Pub, Cierra knew about The Kings Head.  We never heard any traditional music in the pubs because the Euros were going on and that was on all the TVs.