Wild Atlantic Coast - Ring of Skellig ~ Where are the Jays

Skellig Michael - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Skellig Michael is a pair of Islands 7.2 miles off shore. Greater Skellig is known for the Gaelic monastery built between the 6th and 7th century. In our travels, we have been amazed at the great lengths monks will go to seek isolation. (Check out our post for the Meteora Monastery for another example.

There are four reasons to visit Skellig Michael

Visit the monastic monastery
Incredible scenic views
See the charming residents, Puffins everywhere
Star Wars location for The Force Awakens and then again in The Last Jedi.

Only 180 people are allowed to visit the island each day between mid-May and October 2nd via 15 private boats that take approximately 12 people each assuming the weather is conducive which it often isn’t. The rangers on the Island make the call to close when it’s not safe to dock. We departed on a good day, but the waves still tossed us about. 45 minutes after departure we are ready to land. We are on the leeward side, but it’s still choppy and the captain must make a fast approach and then gun the engines in reverse while the deck hand loops a line around a cleat. The transfer is dangerous and the captain shouts instructions. “Grab the rail, two hands don’t stop!” “Wait” Then once the boat settles from a wave the next person makes the step.

Approaching the dock

I’m not sure if it was before we boarded the boat or seeing the steps, that Carol had decided that I was trying to kill her again. (Sometimes we (I) take on hikes that we shouldn’t have attempted.). Maybe it was during the safety talk given to us by one of the three rangers who live on the island. Despite Carol’s concerns she makes the ascent. It’s actually coming back down that worries her more. (Click here to watch a Safety Video to see more of the island and to help you decide if it’s something you’re up to doing.

The steps are all hand carved by the monks centuries ago. We have over 600 narrow and steep steps to traverse. Fortunately, the welcoming committee is there to great us and encourage us on our way to the monastery. Thousands of puffins are flying around while others are peeking out of burrows only a few feet away. Their cute faces are a fun distraction.

Welcoming committee or debating who will make it to the top

(Click here for Puffin Video if you are reading this in an email.)

We didn’t realize how fortunate we were to visit in late June. These Atlantic Puffins arrive in mid-April to breed and depart around the first week of August. Scientists are pondering why last year they left the end of July. It seems they are normally very punctual and leaving early raised concerns. We also learned that Puffins mate for long term, possibly for life. They have one egg per year and raise their young in rock crevices which are abundant on the island. Those large orange beaks are great for bringing fish back for their young. The beaks are only orange during breeding season when they return to the sea, the color peels off them for the rest of the year.

Puffin inflight

Best viewed in full screen

Hillside of many, many Puffins walking and swooping off the cliff

(Click here to watch video if you are reading this in an email.)

Puffins everywhere

The ascent is long and steep, fortunately there are landings to stop and rest. The views are stupendous (if you find a stop where you are comfortable to look around!) Landings are also handy to let people going the opposite direction go by. Passing on these narrow steps is not a comforting experience.

We had to dress warmly for the boat ride, but then hiking up the mountain meant stripping layers off. And yes going up was much better than coming down.

St Michael's Monastery

It was founded sometime between the 5th and 6th century by Gaelic Christian’s and was continually occupied to sometime between the late 12th and early 13th century. The first written reference to it is from the 8th century. Scholars estimate there were only approximately 12 monks in residence on the island at one time. Additionally, there are records of pilgrims visiting the island starting in the early 16th century. If the community below is not remote enough, there is one more at the peak that they don’t allow visitors to go to for good reason.

Cemetary in foreground

Note Puffin flying

No need to let out smoke from a fire as there isn’t any wood on the island.

see I really did make it all the way to the top

Chapel dedicated to St Michael

Star Wars

The Star Wars movies had Luke Skywalker living in the beehive huts in the pictures above. In addition, they used the Island as a dramatic background in the photos below.

Little Skellig

We make it back down without incident (I followed advice and went down sideways which meant I was a little sore the next day and rarely looked down to see how far up I was). Our Captain then took us for a cruise around the island with our deck hand/guide telling us the history of the two light houses on the island. Today only one operates in a fully automated mode. He also points out the tiny building where the rangers reside. It’s now time to sail to Little Skellig, a short distance away. Little Skellig is a nature preserve, landings are not permitted. We sail around the island to witness the largest breeding colony in Ireland of Northern Gannets. Estimates range from 32 to 35 thousand breeding pairs. That’s right, the island is covered in large birds with 5-6 foot wingspans and Guano.

Time to depart - glad to be at the bottom and dressed for the cold boat ride.

Little Skellig

~32,000 breeding pairs of Northern Gannets

Back on dry land

The deck hand/guide recommends Fisherman’s Bar for some lunch. It’s standing room only of locals watching a Rugby match on TV in this seafaring pub. After a few minutes we are able to get a table in the other room and enjoy our lunch. Then it’s off for a treat at Skellig Chocolate. The only problem is the road turns into a single track and we must cross Coomanaspig Pass 797 ft above sea level. We can see cars coming down the tall hillside and seek out a place where the road is a little wider so our cars can squeeze past each other. I’m driving slow and the locals, well they’re not. We survive and go get our chocolate. Of course, we have to go back the way we came.

Portmagee welcoming us back from our adventure

On the return chocolate run, we stop and catch the views from the top of the pass and again at the Cliffs of Kerry towering 1,000 feet above sea level. Amazing.