The Travels of Carol and Jeff as they experience life around the globe.

the Berkshires

 Lenox

Is one of the small towns in the county of Berkshire, Massachusetts which is where we stayed.  The county is pretty much what people are referring to when they say the Berkshires.  It is the western edge from north to south of the state so there is some overflow to New York, Connecticut and Vermont for the "Berkshires" area.  Lenox is a very nice, upscale small town - population is only 5,000.  It is full of nice shops for all sorts of items from clothing to housewares and good restaurants too of course.  

We stayed in an Airbnb named "High Above Cliffwood" at the top of a very old, huge house.  The house had been a B and B at one time so like I said it was big.  We had the 3rd floor attic.  It was on the large side with a living room, dining room, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom and large closets.  We cooked real meals, relaxed, worked out and explored the area.

The Berkshires became part of the itinerary on the advice of fellow travelers in Cape Cod and then the night before we came here we met a couple from the area who could be the tourist bureau so we heard a lot of nice things and they were true.  The area is rolling hills covered in forests filled with all sorts of professional entertainment venues with New England history mixed in to boot.  

front of the house
back of house with Carol on the stairs

kitchen

living room

bedroom
 
Interior views of a barn they had in their back yard.  They relocated it from Vermont.  People inside were neighbors there for a 4th of July get together we were invited too.

Gorgeous massive space with lots to do

1 of 3 Lionel train sets

2 of 3 Lionel train set


3rd floor of the barn

More scenes of Lenox

fox Jeff saw on a morning run - hundred yards from our rental

Historical

Red Lion Inn

The couple who we met at the resort had told us we needed to eat at the Red Lion Inn.  They assured me the food was good and they were correct.  They also said we needed to just experience it.  They were correct there too.  There has been something either a pub or an inn at this site since 1773 so they have a few old things and the building has some interesting spots too.  One of the things to do is sit on the front porch; have a drink and watch the world go by - just what I am doing in this picture.  The inn is in Stockbridge, MA which had a famous resident in the 20th century - Norman Rockwell.  He painted a Christmas scene mural in the early 60s of the main street including this inn.  Each year at Christmastime, the town shuts down for a day and builds fake exteriors on buildings as needed and brings in old cars to recreate the scene.  It is supposed to be impressive.  Not too far away is the Norman Rockwell Museum.


Hancock Shaker Village

At one time there were 3 Shaker Villages in the area. The Hancock Shaker Village was found in 1783 on land that was donated by a couple who converted. Over time all 3 villages closed.  The last Hancock residents (3 old ladies) left in 1960 and the land was sold to local residents who formed a non profit to maintain the village and form a living history museum.  There are 20 buildings on the property and it is being farmed some with its own CSA and other ongoing activities.

large brick meetinghouse - they ate on one floor, rooms on 2 others and a kitchen in the basement

The Shakers were/are not like the Amish or Mennonites, they embrace and develop technology.  One thing they did differently was to build round barns.  This one was for their dairy herd.  They built it into a hill so that they could drive up their wagons and pile hay in the middle of the barn for feed.  The cows were in the middle with an outer area people could walk on and then a manure pit underneath.

round barn
interior of round barn


notice the wooden walkways


Another example of embracing technology - they were early users of the automobile and upgraded regularly.

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail is a former railroad line that connected 3 of the towns running along several ponds and in shady woody areas.  Ashuwillticock is a Native American name for a branch of a local river and  meant "the pleasant river in between the hills".


cabin with gorgeous flowers by a lake we passed on the trail

beaver dam on another pond along trail

Entertainment Venues

There were all sorts of professional entertainment options in the area.  There was a local production of Gershwin songs with Broadway performers, an annual dance festival (Jacobs Ladder), a Shakespeare Festival, Tanglewood with music and other smaller events too.  Down the street from us in a former large estate we saw people out painting and I just realized it is a girls camp so the hills are full of arts!

The Shakespeare Festival

We went to a production of King Lear with Christopher Lloyd.  Neither Jeff nor I remembered ever reading the story and have to say we had to read the synopsis a couple of times to get our minds straight on the complicated storyline.  It was a brand new stage for the festival and was obviously designed for Covid times.  The festival has year round facilities here at the site of another former gilded age mansion.  The theater was outside on a terraced lawn with granite and rocks.  Seats were pre arranged in groupings with space in between.  The seats were not permanent but rather upgraded versions of modern folding lawn chairs.  So if it rained, no show, if there was lightning then you were rather exposed.  Oh and the shows started around twilight with an ending around dusk since very little lighting.  It was a small theatre.  I bought tickets the week before we went and got 3rd row out of maybe a dozen rows.  For once in my life, this short person could see very well.  The show was nice, my complaint was they ran over a half hour late which when you make after show dinner plans is a problem.  Also we had lightening in the area - did they pick up the pace?  Nooo - long sword fight slow death at which point they were losing me - come on already and die may have come out of my mouth.

the stage from our seats

Tanglewood

Tanglewood was probably the one thing Jeff and I both knew about the Berkshires before we decided to visit and at that we knew:  John Williams conducting the Boston Pops at Tanglewood from TV.  Well Tanglewood is yet another old mansion/estate and right in Lenox.  The estates were all given names and the Tappan family named theirs Tanglewood.  The concerts started in the 1930s.  In the winter of 1936 the estate was donated to the orchestra. The musicians play under the "shed" and you can sit there but we were advised to get tickets for lawn seating.  Luckily for us we had brought our lawn chairs and a blanket.  We went to a concert of the Boston Pops on a Sunday afternoon.  Throughout the summer there is a mixture of classical, jazz and pops programs put on by the Boston Pops and other groups such as well known musicians and the students of the onsite music school.

Going to Tanglewood and having lawn seating is kind of a combination of going to the steeplechase or a fancy tailgate event on a pretty site with music thrown in.  It was predicted to rain so people held back some I suspect, but in the parking lot I immediately noticed all the people with foldable wagons full of chairs, food, drinks, blankets and maybe even flowers.  Yep they were coming to party and relax.  We staked out our place to the right of the entrance as instructed which was wise because then we were directly behind the middle of the orchestra and in site of a large LED screen to see inside the shed.  We then went exploring.  First we noticed all the niceties people had like low wooden tables if they were on a blanket or umbrellas that attached to their lawn chairs.  The estate still has wonderfully manicured grounds and a nice well maintained old house that we could see.  We wandered through a maze, a terrace, a grape vine arbor and huge old trees.  You could tell who came regularly and what they appreciated like the groups that were far from the music, but had a gorgeous view of the mountains. The chance of rain prediction was for the time the program was to start - this time the weatherman was correct.  Since the musicians are covered the show goes on even in rain.  Happily it stayed a light drizzle/rain throughout the concert.  They were giving everyone large tarps for the ground so we used that and placed our chairs on it in our raincoats and shared a golf umbrella for protection.  We enjoyed the show.  It was 3 modern pieces with one being a new piece that was supposed to have its world premiere in Philadelphia in March of 2020, but got cut because of the pandemic.  It was a nice piece, then we had a violin soloist and ended with a Dvorak piece which is why we had chosen the program.

ready for the concert

the mountain view

inside the "shed"

a selfie


front entrance

Museums

Mass MoCa

We had never heard of Mass MoCA before this trip, but can now tell you it is one of the largest modern art museum in the world.  It is located in a former print factory so you wander between several buildings to see the exhibits.  Some of these exhibits are huge.  Like the first one pictured below.  It is the entire room and the room is probably the size of a basketball court.  The museum encourages artists to come and stay and build huge pieces of work onsite.  It also likes pieces that span more than 1 art form.  For instance this one pictured below lasts for about 30 minutes and the lights change, people speak, you move along a walk way at times.  I appreciate modern art more after this museum because I realized how exact and precise some of the parts of these works had to be.  If you hang that little plastic aircraft at the wrong height its shadow will not appear to fly where you need it to be.

yes those are plastic figurines - they were in an enclosed walkway between 2 buildings and went probably 30 feet and were located on shelves about a floor or so above ground

a very relevant painting

The Clark Art Institute

The MassMoCA is not the only modern art museum in the area.  The Clark Art Institute or The Clark is named for the couple whose art collection started this museum.  Sterling and Francine Clark were art collectors in the early 1900s.  He met her in Paris while he was in the army.  He had inherited a fortune from the Singer sewing machine company.  They liked impressionist and several of the modern artists popular in the early 1900s.  There is a whole gallery dedicated to French Impressionists which is a favorite of mine.  When they went to set up their museum, there was fear of war so they did not want to go to New York City and his family had ties to Williams College which is next door hence a nice art museum in the countryside.  The museum has a lot of land which has cows mixed with art or so I am told - it was a rainy day when we went so no outdoor exploration was done.

There were 2 visiting exhibits inside while we were there.  The Nikolai Astrup exhibit and the Claude and Francois Xavier Lalanne nature transformed exhibit.  Astrup was a Norwegian from the early 1900s.  An impressive thing about his work was that he would do the same scene as a painting and as a wooden ink print.  His prints could take up to a year to complete.  He would use the same wooden prints to make more than 1 version of a scene sometimes playing with the ink colors or even leaving parts out since each final product was composed of multiple wooden printing plates.

The other special exhibit was a husband and wife team who each did their own thing, but they complimented each other.  There were very much into nature and making it whimsical in art.  The fish below is one of their pieces it is a carp that is above water and is supposed to be out of the water.  There was a rhinoceros close to real size with part of it that opened up to be a desk.  Also I think they are the inventors of something I have seen before - groups of fake sheep in a room.  They had that on exhibit too.

Norman Rockwell

On our way out of town, we stopped in Stockbridge to visit the Norman Rockwell museum.  Below is the painting that I mentioned above of the town during Christmas.  The Red Lion Inn is on the far right side.  The painting was the cover of a McCall's magazine in 1967.


I learned a few things about Norman Rockwell.  I knew just as the guy who did all those Saturday Evening Post that were iconic American scenes.  Turns out he also did some work for the government during WWII to aid in bond drives - the four freedom series and he left the Saturday Evening Post in the 1960s so that he could produce more thought provoking paintings.

These 4 paintings were done for the government for the bond effort.  Each painting was assigned a theme.  The themes were:  freedom of worship, freedom from want, freedom from fear, and freedom of  speech.





Berkshires Botanical Gardens

We tend to like botanical gardens so that is always a popular spot for us.  Thus we visited the local Berkshires Botanical Gardens one afternoon.  Jeff took a picture of their straw art butterfly chasers.  They also had a nice area with topiaries of a variety of things mostly with tongue in cheek design.  Unfortunately a lot of them need more time to let the plants grow so we chose the vignette of chairs and a wall painting.



Breweries and Wineries

Barrington Brewery and Restaurant

We visited Barrington Brewery on the day we chose to visit the town of Great Barrington.  The brewery is interesting in its own right.  It is in an old barn and it uses solar power for a significant portion of the brewing process.  We ate lunch there and Jeff had one of their stouts while I went for a local cider.  The area loves IPA beers and Carol and Jeff do not.  The main course was nice, but the dessert was great.  All of the desserts were homemade and on display.  I chose the chocolate stout cake and it was delicious.  



Balderdash Winery

We visited the Shaker Village on a week end and at the end we asked if there was a winery or anything near by to spend the rest of the afternoon.  The clerk did not know, but 2 other customers chimed in and said you must go to this cute little winery called Balderdash Cellars.  It was only a mile away so off we went.  While the wines were nice, the view and ambiance were stellar.  They had terraced a portion of a field that flowed down to a clearing so you could see a lake and had run electricity out to a spot for musicians.  They had red Adirondack chairs and rocking chairs with little tables to sit on while you listened to music.  Each seating area had a number so they took your order by number and kept everyone's order straight.  It was a nice afternoon.













Mount Washing Resort

 

Mt Washington Resort

The Omni Hotel resort located in Bretton Woods, NH is one of the last grand hotels built for the wealthy during the gilded age.   Today it offers a wide variety of activities and wonderful food to entertain its guests.  The first floor is very spacious and full of seating, gaming tables and two massive fireplaces.  The exterior takes advantage of the grand view of the mountains by surrounding the hotel with covered porches along with additional seating on a roof top terrace bar over top a new conference center.  The hotel has a long list of activities:  Two golf course, stables, tennis courts, mountain bike trails, Alpine and cross country skiing.  We chilled.
lobby rotunda

1st floor entry/lobby

Carol wearing her latest creation at the terrace bar

Dining

We greatly enjoyed dinner in the Main Dining room and at the more casual but equally delicious Stickney's Restaurant.  Stickney's has outdoor seating with a great view, but we passed on the option as  it was a cool wet day,  Due to staffing, reservations were only available either early or late in the evening.

Main Dining room courtesy of Omni Hotels

Stickney's Restaurant courtesy of Omni Hotels


The Cave

In the basement of the hotel is a former Speak Easy with rock foundation walls.   Today the hotel operates it as a late evening bar.   We had a pleasant time speaking with the people around us seated at the bar.  One couple was from The Berkshires, which is our next destination.  We had a wonderful time learning about each others lives and the many things we should do at our next stop.  

The Cave (courtesy Omni Hotels)

The Slopes

Omni Hotel is home to the largest ski resort in NH.  We rode the Gondola to the top of the slope for the view.  They have a wonderful bar restaurant at the top (not open) with an event center on the second floor.   We walked through the event center as they were setting up.  The glass walls provided a stupendous view of the mountains.  

Hotel with Mt. Washington obscured by clouds in the background

we rode the gondola to the top

Golf

We didn't play, but we did hit some balls at the range.  Carol was pleased that her injured wrist didn't complain much, so we look forward to playing a round soon.  

History

A hotel that is over 100 years old is bound to have some history and this one doesn't disappoint.   We had the privilege one evening to attend a seminar regarding a world altering event that occurred here and saved the hotel from the wrecking ball. Through good fortune and the need for a key vote from a NH Senator, the hotel was selected to host a conference of 44 countries from across the world to decide on Monetary policy in a post war world when the outcome of the war was far from clear.  This is how the World Bank and IMF, International Monetary Fund were created.  A subset of the nations representatives met in the room pictured below to build the framework.  Our speaker shared stories of the time leading up to and including the event.  He told of the drama amongst the key delegates including John Maynard Keynes. He also spoke of the herculean task to reopen a hotel in war time.  The condition of the hotel was such that the Delegates were either disappointed at the facility or thrilled to have food.   

The room where it happened. (borrowed the phrase from the musical Hamilton)

Surronding Area

Rek-Lis

Rek-Lis brewing company is a great local brewery and restaurant.  IPAs are very popular in Maine and Massachusetts.  Unfortunately neither of us are fans.  We did find a couple dark beers and Ales to make an enjoyable flight to go with lunch.  We tried a smoked beer which did taste smoky, but not something we would order again.  I enjoyed their interpretation of a Cuban sandwich.




Covered Bridges

On our rainy drive to Lenox, MA we found two covered bridges in and near Bath NH.  We took the opportunity to drive across the Bath Bridge.  The second pictured connects the Village of Woodsville to Bath is believed to be the oldest in NH.  It was restored in 2004 and only handles pedestrian traffic.  

1832 Bath, NH covered bridge #28

1829  Village of Woodsville to Bath NH covered bridge









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